Leaving the world behind, the wind, rain or sun inviting you south, you enter the rich, turbulent waters of Houston Stewart Channel. Nestled deep in the heart of this channel is Rose Harbour, three hours by Zodiac boat from the nearest dirt road. 

Rose Harbour presents its history to the curious eye. Towering moss-covered forests with traces of thousands of years of Haida habitation to remnants of a whaling station, and now the beautiful gardens and funky cabins of the current residents, Susan and Goetz. 

The Consolidated Whaling Company operated in Rose Harbour from 1910 until 1943. With Japan entering WWII in 1941, they lost their main market, and all the Japanese Canadians working there (50% of the labour force) were interned, causing it to shut down. After the war, B.C. Packers purchased all of the abandoned whaling stations on the coast but only reopened Coal Harbour, which ran until 1967.  B.C. Packers sold off its coastal properties, and Rose Harbour, a 166-acre “quarter section,” was purchased by ten eclectic people in 1976 who formed a company in order to own the land collectively called the Rose Harbour Whaling Company.

This group was a mixed bag. Families, loggers, hippies, draft dodgers and fishermen. Susan’s partner, John, was one of the original shareholders. In 1983 Susan and John and their two sons, aged nine months and almost four, moved to Rose Harbour. They lived in the bay on their 36 ft. fish boat until moving into the house they constructed from beach-combed and salvaged materials and the whaling station bricks for flooring.

The Rose Harbour Kitchen

Travellers stopped by and shared tales and a meal. Susan sees cooking as her art, so in 1993 Susan opened the Rose Harbour kitchen in her house for tour groups, kayak groups, and independent travellers for dinners. When sunny dinners were served outside, in inclement weather, the dinners were indoors in her small house, often two groups and some independent travellers added on. This made for great camaraderie and memorable meals.

A Labour of Love

As others made Rose Harbour home alongside Susan and her family, the place became a destination, and many boat operators and independent travellers started frequenting the site. Achieved with basic supplies delivered by boat but mostly from Susan’s wonderfully productive garden, a labour of love nourished with lots of seaweed for mulch and tireless hours of hard work. 

Susan did this every summer for over 25 years. In 2017, Frances joined Susan to support her and eventually take over the business. They are both masters of winging it with very little and cultivators of magical things. We’re very lucky and grateful to eat their food when we visit!

After 25 years of feeding hungry mouths, Susan passed the business on to Frances. In 2019, Moresby Explorers worked to get Susan's house back and teamed up with 50 volunteers to build a new cookhouse. The building was completed in true Rose Harbour style. Months of hard work, countless days of rain and lots of delicious food to fuel the crew (thanks Frances and Susan!) On a shoestring budget and with a lot of helping hands, the Rose Harbour Sustainable Living Society was born. A not-for-profit, which now owns and operates the new cookhouse. With this increased space, Frances can continue providing food for travellers, and Susan can pass on her love, skills and appreciation of food and hospitality!

So, you want to eat the yummy food in Rose Harbour, or simply you want to spend some time with Susan and Frances! There are now three ways to do this with Moresby Explorers.

NEW Cooking Workshops with Susan and Frances!
This 5-day, all-inclusive trip includes return Zodiac transport to Rose Harbour, food and accommodation in Rose Harbour, cooking lessons with Susan and Frances and a trip to SG̱ang Gwaay. This trip is only available once this year but may be available again in 2024. For more info, click here.

NEW 2-Day Southern Half Tour
This trip focuses on the southern part of Gwaii Haanas. We stay and eat at Rose Harbour, visit SG̱ang Gwaay and stop at G̱andll K’in Gwaay.yaay (Hot springs). For more info, click here.

Four-Day Tour
Our 4-day tours stay at Rose Harbour, a great opportunity to try the food and spend some time in the cook house, observe the history of Rose Harbour and become immersed in the community. For more info, click here.