We are thrilled to welcome spring on Haida Gwaii after a winter of preparation, and it's been heartwarming to see many familiar faces as we reunite with our team.

Throughout the season, we love having members of our local community join us, some have explored the area many times (and never get tired of it), and some have never had a chance to explore the place they call home. We are equally excited to welcome back previous guests as we are to welcome first-time visitors who have come to see what this wondrous place, Haida Gwaii, is all about.

For those thinking about travelling to Haida Gwaii, the top of the list of questions is, “When should I visit Haida Gwaii and Gwaii Haanas?” The answer is more complex than you may think. Many factors add to your experience, and understanding what you seek is crucial in deciding when to join us on a boat tour.

May

May, when nature's colour palette switches from the grays of winter to the greens of spring. The welcome spouts from gray whales fill the sandy bays, pigeon guillemots frantically collecting fish take over the soundscape, and the smell of the forest coming alive fills the air.

The month of May is one of the best times to birdwatch. It's a great time to witness the eagles perform cartwheel displays as they lock their talons to test each other's skill and bravery. The hummingbirds return in droves and start dive-bombing each other, buzzing around to find the best nectar.

The light and vistas in May are spectacular. As the sun slowly warms the cool winter ocean, moisture rises, and clouds form around mountain peaks and valley bottoms—an opportunity to witness why Haida Gwaii is nicknamed the misty isles.

As with many worthy things in life, there is a payoff to experiencing Haida Gwaii in May. The average temperature is between 5c and 12c, making open-boat travel chilly. However, our Mustang floater jackets add a solid inch of foam for floatation and insulate the body very well. May, a colder month, tends to deter the masses, so you may enjoy your trip to Gwaii Haanas without seeing another soul, which could bring a deeper connection to your trip.

June

As the seas warm, the oceans come alive with bustling activity. Baitfish, such as sand lances, sardines, and herring, gather in vast numbers, attracting whales, sea lions and seabirds. As if magnetized, gulls, pigeon guillemots, eagles, rhinoceros, auklets, puffins, and common mures flock from one to another. These feeding sessions are known to last from minutes to even hours.

June is often nicknamed June-uary. The slowly rising average temperatures, between 10c and 15c and lots of precipitation wake up the waterfalls and provide well-needed life to the plants.

The combination of rising temperatures and rainfall creates the perfect conditions for the berry bushes to flourish. Salmonberries are usually the first to produce, followed by thimbleberries, huckleberries and salal, yum! This time of year is also great for viewing the bears grassing at the back of Crescent Inlet from our float camp.

July & August

July often welcomes the first hot days of summer. In places like Bigsby Inlet, the warm sun heats the granite, creating a melting pot for the trees. As we travel past different inlets, this heat is pushed down, grabbing the oily scent from the trees and providing a whole sensory experience. Your lungs fill with the freshest air on earth, and your eyes feast on the ocean waves and towering mountains.

Plan to come during these months if you prefer the warmer weather, but this comes with an increased level of traffic in Gwaii Haanas. Most people visit in July and August, so you'll likely encounter more people on your trip.

The warmer waters bring ocean sunfish, an increase in sharks and, in pelagic regions, tuna. We often find deer and bears cruising the beaches in the morning, making the most of the cooler air and snacking on the seaweed of crustaceans.

September

The month of abundance. The warmer seas welcome salmon to the bays and inlets as they travel up creeks and rivers to reproduce. The migrating salmon bring seals, bears, eagles and sea lions to the mouths of the rivers, feasting on the salmon as they run the gauntlet. The brave fish that make their destination bury eggs in the river bed with their last energy reserves, then succumb to the fresh water and mercy of the land mammals and birds.

These carcasses line the rivers and surrounding forest, delivering a burst of marine-specific 15N nitrogen into the low-lying areas, fertilizing the forest and enabling the growth of giant spruce and cedars.

During September, most kayaking, large sailing and motorboat operators depart as they return south, which usually gives us more time to appreciate the busier sites and a more private experience.

So, when's the best time to come? It depends!

Are you willing to brave the weather to experience more depth and life, or would you prefer a warm breeze but see a few more humans appreciating the wonders of Gwaii Haanas?